Contentment Shattered

Sorry for the lack of updates. We've been slow to settle into our new lives here in Nablus.

We arrived in Tel Aviv on Monday January 22 at 4:19 am. The flight from Cairo was only one hour. Very short - very quick. I don't remember anything about the flight, however. I was sleeping from the moment we sat in the plane until the moment we landed in Tel Aviv. Checking in for the flight I do remember.

It took 3 hours.

We flew El Al to and from Cairo. El Al is the Israeli national airline and, therefore, a branch of the Israeli government. They require that you arrive at your departure airport 4 hours! before departure. We needed all four hours.

We arrived at the airport. Our Cairo tour coordinator showed us the proper security gate to go through and we were on our way.

Our luggage was screened by an X-Ray machine. We passed through metal detectors just to gain access to the departures counters. We then stood in the El Al line. The end of the line was marked by a velvet rope. An available representative would open the velvet rope for the next passenger and take them to a music stand where the interrogation would begin.

I am not exaggerating. It was an interrogation.

“How long have you known each other?”

“Why did you visit Egypt?”

“Why are you going to Israel?”

“How did you get to Egypt?”

“Where are you staying in Israel?”

“How long have you known the person you are staying with?”

“Four months in Israel? Why? How do you have the money to do this? Why 4 months in Israel and only 10 days in Egypt?”

“Where did you stay in Egypt?”

“What did you see in Egypt? Do you have pictures?”

And on and on. We answered the same questions for 45 minutes. Swells passport picture is now 8 years old, or so, so they needed to see more ID. Her name is changed from her passport and the US passport people simply typed an amendment in the back of the passport. All of these things caused great concern for our representative so she talked to her superiors multiple times.

When we were deemed non-threatening by this woman (who was kind and considerate by the way) we were sent to special screening so that new folks (also kind and considerate) could go through our luggage. Every single item we packed was removed from our luggage and x-rayed. If it was electronic we needed to show them that it was in working condition. We were questioned about many items. We were in the special screening room for a good 2 hours. We were taken individually to a backroom where we were wanded and pat down. Swell had to remove her pants. (Surprisingly enough the buttons on her pants kept setting the wand off. Apparently in Israel this is of great concern.)

We passed the tests. Our luggage mostly passed. They detained our electric toothbrush, our external camera flash, and the cord that plugs my electric razor in for further questioning. I feel bad for said items as I am sure they are currently being tortured and scrutinized. The toothbrush wouldn’t show that it was charging for some reason so it couldn’t come. The camera flash is old and seldom used; unfortunately there were some batteries in it that had corroded. It failed multiple tests (personally I’ve always been concerned about the flashes friends – an unruly bunch to say the least. I wouldn’t be surprised if it were up to no good. Trying to come to Israel to “flash” people. Pervert. My razor would also not show that it would charge. The cord failed but the razor worked so they let me keep the razor but they detained the cord.

They promise to ship us the remaining items by ground so hopefully they make it soon. I miss my toothbrush. Once you go electric you can’t go back to regular. It just isn’t right.

When we arrived in Tel Aviv we were met by a driver (we met him the last time we were in Tel Aviv – before our flight to Cairo) who was to take us to Nablus – about a 45 minute drive.

We arrived at the final Israeli check stop into Nablus at 6:15 am. They wouldn’t let us in as the check stop was yet to be open to vehicular traffic. You could pass on foot but not by car.

Our driver, to help pass the time, took us to a café for breakfast. Swell was in heaven. Eating, drinking – generally being merry.

After breakfast we tried the check stop again. Closed. The driver drives people around for a living and is quite adept and getting in and out of Palestine so he found an Israeli army dude that he knows who led us through the still closed check stop. People were everywhere. Palestinians trying to get to Israel or other parts of Palestine to go to work or school were milling about trying to get permission to live their lives. Permission is often denied or the people are detained for hours. We have been told stories of students who want to go home for the weekend – a mere 10 minutes away who take 3 or 4 hours to get home due to harassment at the check points. Due to the presence of the check points most students rent apartments near the university (many students per residence) in order to avoid having to go through the check points. Quite an expense.

We eventually arrived in Nablus and were taken to meet the dean of the optometry school and were given a tour of the old campus where we met the University President, Vice-President, directors, etc. So many people. So many names. Don’t remember any of them.

One fellow we met gave us a tour of the library and other buildings in the old campus. (The school has two main campuses in Nablus old and new – named after their age). He was very nice and kept making Swell cry and me. He constantly told us that we are a gift to the people here. That above all we will help the students, who often suffer from depression, know that they are not alone in the world. We will show them that they are not forgotten by everyone and that people do care for them. He mentioned that students often have very low self-esteem/self-worth due to the occupation and that it is very helpful for foreign visitors just to listen to the students – to be friends with them. It was very humbling to listen to him. An experience not to be forgotten.

We were shown that flat that we will use for the next four months as well. A small place. Only three bedrooms, three bathrooms, dining room, living room, kitchen. In all seriousness you could fit our condo in the living room, dining room area. Far too big for us but we’ll take it – and the satellite TV, and the soon to be set up internet, and the coming washing machine, and the weekly maid service, and the first set of groceries.

All in all our first day here was a great day. We enjoyed meeting the people. We enjoyed seeing the city.

We didn’t enjoy hearing gunshots (a stupid police/security kid firing into the air) and seeing our driver and everyone else in the van ducking for cover.

We didn’t enjoy last nights wind storm.

We didn’t enjoy being without hot water on our first day, and without water on our second. (Swell still hasn’t had a shower – I’ve had two.)

We didn’t enjoy having to end our shopping for supplies because: “The Israelis have entered Nablus” (turned out to be an idiot French diplomat who came to Nablus with armed security but didn’t tell the Palestinian authorities so they thought it was Israeli security).

We didn’t enjoy hearing last nights gun battle – VERY FAR FROM OUR VERY SHELTERED HOME – WITH BULLET PROOF SHADES!!

Now we’re working on syllabi for the five courses we will teach. Met some of the students. Very nice – very young.

We’ll write more in the near future. It may be a couple of days because we don’t have internet at home yet and it is the weekend on Thursday and Friday.

I’ll also have contact information for all of you soon.